All the parts:
Stock 2nd 4AFE 7 rib engine block
Teardown video:    • ENGINE TEARDOWN and ANALYSIS - Projec...  

OEM 4AGE late bigport and 20v Toyota crankshaft. Part no: 13401 - 16020

MRP reinforcement caps: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age...

OEM 4AGZE low compression 8:1 semi forged pistons. 0.5 oversize
https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agz...
Part no: 13103 - 16100
Related video:    • What are SEMI FORGED PISTONS?  

MaXpeedingRods connecting rods: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/produc...
Related video:    • UNBOXING budget forged CONRODS - MaXp...  
Coupon code: D4A--get 15% discount for all orders

King racing rod bearings:
https://amzn.to/3EayxDd

King racing main bearings:
https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/prod...

ARP 203-5403 main studs
https://amzn.to/3EcjIjK

A strong engine block is the foundation of every powerful and long lived turbocharged engine and today I'm going to show you in detail the process of building the engine block that I will be using in my turbocharged engine. Addtionally we'll be addiing up the costs of all the elements in the build to see exactly how much a strong, fully machined engine block with all new parts costs. Also links to all the parts you will see in this video are in the description.

The engine I'm building is a modest 1.6 liter Toyota 4AFE whose power output I'm planning to triple by turbocharging it. The planned application is street and track driving which means that this an enthusiast level build and has such a budget.

As I didn't want to remove the existing engine from my car in the interest of keeping it on the road for as much as possible I decided to buy a junkyard engine and build it. Obviously the first step towards building a block is to completely dissemble the engine and the engine block and remove all the internals from the engine block.
As you can see we are working with a pretty old school closed deck cast iron engine block. Although cast iron blocks are heavier than their aluminum counterparts they are a good choice for turbo builds due to their increased strength and rigidity which requires no or minimal reinforcement to cope with high amounts of boost.

Once the block is dissembled the next step I have taken is to do all the necessary machining. And this includes boring and honing the cylinders for 0.5mm oversize pistons and decking the block to achieve a perfectly flat surface for the head gasket.

Another type of machining that is often done is align honing which looks like this. This ensures that all the main bearing tunnels are of equal size and in perfect alignment with each other . Although many machine shops in my are offer this service I decided against doing it because all of my main bearing tunnels were within spec. align honing is good practice but it requires a lot of operator skill and all the tools to be equally worn. I have seen some negative experiences from align honing that unfortunately did more harm than good so after taking into account my current measurements and the difficulty of finding Toyota 4A blocks I decided to not take chances and leave things as they are.

I also machined the block to allow the fitment of oil squirters. This not something that is typically done and it did create some minor damage on the block which needed to be welded up but more on this later.

After all the machining is complete I decided to remove all the loose surface rust on the block to prepare it for painting later on. But what's much more important than rust on the outside is cleanliness on the inside. The block will be full of metal shavings and dust after machining as well as grime and other debris from previous engine operation. This is why cleaning the engine block as thoroughly as possible is incredibly important for any engine build. Any metal shavings or other foreign matter left inside the block can cause engine damage and ruin your investment. I cleaned the block by spraying gasoline under pressure into every nook and cranny. Gasoline is a good solvent and helps remove old oil gunk and grime and it also flushes out metal particles. It is especially important to clean every engine oil passageway. These can be found at the oil filter location, at all the main bearings, as well as inside the block going to the cylinder head.

Another extremely important area to clean is the main oil gallery. In my case it's even more important because I have drilled holes and cut threads into the main oil gallery resulting in a massive amount of metal shavings inside it.

A special thank you to my patrons:
Daniel
Peter Della Flora
Daniel Morgan
William
Richard Caldwell
Pepe
Brian Durning
Brian Alvarez
Dave Westwood
Joe C

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