For some time I’ve used Ikea JANSJO gooseneck lamps around the workshop. They’re great, but they’re not totally without shortcomings. In this film I build an alternative work light for my milling machine.

I examine what makes the JANSJO lights tick, and find out what’s under the bonnet of some low cost automotive LED ring lights (and learn a bit about the PT4115 and TP8005 LED driver), and modify them to suit my needs. Once relatively uncommon, these rings are now readily available from all the usual on-line suppliers (also variously referred to as DRL rings, AngelEyes, Halo Lights, COB rings, etc).

This build started way back in 2016, before having the misfortune of becoming one of my many ‘paused projects’. It resurfaced almost a year ago, and has been on the back burner ever since, creeping along bit by bit as-and-when I had a few minutes to spare. This film contains (amongst other things): turning, milling, drilling, anodising, annealing, electronics, CAD and how not to make a face grooving tool 😉

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I’ve had a couple of viewers ask about the plug and socket I used between the die cast box and wall wart power supply: They’re Binder 719 series circular connectors. Over the years I’ve used them for a number of projects and found them to be both versatile and reliable (coming in male / female / cable end / panel mount varieties and in 3, 4 and 5 pole). They’re a little bit expensive for my budget (though not in the same league as the all metal connectors from the likes of Lemo and Fischer) but being solder bucket you can offset the cost a little by not needing special crimp or pin insertion tooling.

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I’ve had a number of comments suggesting this build may have been completed using 3D printer.

Take a look here:    • LED Spindle Light: 3D Printing Update   for a little more info on why I completed the build the way I did.

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A quick shout out to @JimTaylor42 whose Design Spark Mechanical series have managed to drag me from strictly back of an envelope to an occasional (but still not yet very proficient) CAD user.

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All imperial conversions are at best approximate, and are just for the benefit of anyone not viewing in metric 😉

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Chapters:

00:00 – Jansjo lights: The good
00:16 – Jansjo lights: What’s inside?
00:31 – Jansjo lights: The not so good
00:53 – Planning an alternative light source
01:40 – So many projects, so little time
01:55 – A change of plan
03:00 – Starting the build
03:53 – Adding some detail
04:14 – An experimental grooving tool
05:10 – Perseverance over planning
05:27 – Adding more features on the lathe
06:49 – A little coordinate drilling
07:23 – Modifying button head screws to suit
08:21 – Planning LED fitment
08:56 – Prototyping the wiring
09:48 – Machining a brass saddle
11:37 – From machining to electronics
12:08 – TP8005 versus PT4115
12:47 – Ring light driver circuit tests
13:29 – Adding a brightness control
14:06 – Here’s one I prepared earlier
14:28 – Bending thin walled brass tube
15:13 – Anodising aluminium
16:33 – Starting assembly
18:48 – It works!
19:02 – A side project from left overs
19:16 – Jansjo lights: Change to survive


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For the material I couldn't capture myself, my thanks goes to the following:

Evan at https://time.is/ for kind permission to use calendar screen grabs.

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Mike from AutoPhotography for the use of the BMW headlight, via https://pixabay.com/

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Blastwave FX for the slap sound by via https://www.zapsplat.com

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Manually subtitled for accuracy -click the CC box.

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Shot: HDC-HS700 1920x1080 50P AVCHD
Edit: DavInci Resolve 18 ProRes 422
Mic: DR-05