10 things I do in the lawn:
1) Premium Genetics (time on NTEP)
2) Urea
3) Regular Mowing (1/3 rule)
4) Sharp Blades (a video on how I sharpen rotary blades can be found here:    • 🏆 BETTER THAN FACTORY SHARP - FAST!  ...  
5) Water per evapotranspiration (links below)
6) Spot weed with a pocket knife when mowing or post emergent spray as needed
7) Grub control (follow label): I do high rate acelepryn at 11.83 grams per 1000 square feet or GrubEX at 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet is equivalent to high rate acelepryn (AI = chlorantraniliprole)
8) PH adjustment (doesn’t need to be perfect)
9) Small prills if spreading granular
Low or neutral PH: Scott’s
High PH: ProPEAT.
If you don’t need P or K, Scott’s Lawn Food
(or 17-0-4 ProPEAT for high PH)
10) Rotary scissors for edging (and trimming if possible)

10 things I don’t do in the lawn:
1) X No Humic Acid (summary video link below)
2) X No phos or potassium… most areas have little chance of benefiting from P or K… 14PPM or higher phos is the number I like on a quality soil test like local turf extension office or Midwest Laboratories or Waypoint Analytical and potassium slightly above 40-50PPM Mehlich-3 is recommended for mild areas and potassium slightly above 60-70PPM Mehlich-3 recommended in areas that get below 8°F in the winter… adding potassium generally becomes a liability rather than an asset much above these safe numbers.
3) X No low cut. I like reel mowing, but I’m seeing how high I can go without it looking hairy rather than mowing every day with T-Nex needed on top of that.
4) X No low quality soil tests. AKA, anything nailed in water. Local extension is best and one soil test per property per lifetime is enough in my opinion (unless an issue surfaces that looks like deficiency).
5) X No pre-emergent. I prefer post emergents that don’t tend to harm roots.
6) X No spoon feeding micro apps or slow release heavy apps… 1 application per month is a good balance of very healthy grass without wasting time applying all the time or mowing all the time.
7) X No PGR’s. I’m not saying there’s no benefit… I just find them unnecessary and not worth it when a reasonable cutting height is chosen
8) X No micro nutrients… I don’t need them a most people don’t need them. Get PH in the ballpark and generally micros supply will far exceed demand. I don’t even apply foliar iron (it does zero to my color).
9) X No cheap pasture grade prilled fertilizers like Sta-Green or Lilly Miller… cheap fertilizers are also often angular rather than round. NO THANKS!
10) X No blade edging… it’s simply obsolete.

DO LESS. GET MORE. Max results-Minimal effort.

No more #humicacid #soiltesting

Focus on: #urea #mowing

Weekly evapotranspiration can be found here:
(Watering every 3 days is roughly ET X 3 / 7 x .75)

https://digital.weather.gov/?zoom=4&l...

Daily evapotranspiration can be found here:
(Days between waterings should add up to at least 1/2” per watering… watering too often is more disease, more thatch, and less soil air. Water early AM only if possible, and the dryer the lawn less disease pressure.)

https://digital.weather.gov/?zoom=4&l...


Turfgrass Epistemology Podcast: https://pca.st/podcast/c3fc6f20-a1af-...

Turfgrass Epistemology YouTube:    / @turfgrassepistemology  

Summary humic video (​⁠​⁠@TheGrassFactor ):    • Is HUMIC ACID A Scam? (Research Says...)  

NTEP Website: https://www.ntep.org

To source urea check local farm supplies or possibly co-ops.

For soil maps of a specific nutrient Google “Soil Map USGS Potassium” as an example… in general only the very most depleted areas MIGHT need that nutrient.

T-Nex was the main PGR I was referencing, but for some reason I never said trinexapac ethyl.

If USGS soil maps show your area (or nearby areas) in dark blue consider getting a quality soil test here (or at your local extension office, but take their recommendations with a grain of salt): https://midwestlabs.com

Recommended granular spreader: Solo chest mount

Recommended backpack sprayer: FoowZone Cyclone

Recommended spray tip for fertilizer: TeeJet TTI11004

Spray tips for herbicides (foliar appropriate):
TeeJet AI11003 for light wind.
TeeJet DG11003 for zero wind.

XR series or finer droplets not recommended.

Related: best fertilizer?, My soil test, potassium, StaGreen 16-0-10, Lilly Miller, Scott’s = greens grade 24-25-4 32-0-10, starter, seeding, 32-0-4, Perfect Blend, ProPEAT greens grade 17-0-4 10-10-10 10-0-10 30-0-10 1-1-1, 1-0-1, 24-8-16 Peter’s, pre-emergent, low cut, high cut, reel mowed lawn, perennial ryegrass bluegrass