For more on the science of lip lines goto @101.skin IG
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Smoker’s lines, bar code lines, & upper lip wrinkles are all terms to describe premature crinkles & wrinkles affecting the upper lip of females. Not all cases are due to smoking, however all cases can be improved with lasers, energy devices & dermal fillers. Skin care including retinol, vitamin C & antioxidants can protect & preserve collagen.
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Why do I get smoker’s lines if I don’t smoke?
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Smoker’s lines can often present in non-smokers. Factors contributing to lines include-
.Sun exposure, as UVR breaks down dermal collagen.
.Age, as there is a decline in collagen & elastin; the building blocks of skin.
.Female gender, as dermal thickness is reduced compared to men.
.Smoking; as this accelerates skin ageing
.Movement; this is a controversial one as it has been proposed that dynamic wrinkles occur more frequently in females due to the fact that females, on average talk more than males. Don’t shoot the messenger, I am only quoting studies.
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How can lasers help with lip wrinkles?
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Lasers stimulate collagen production. The application of controlled thermal damage (laser resurfacing) stimulates wound repair. This in turn produces collagen, elastin & ground substance. The result? Less wrinkles, better skin texture & quality.
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Lasers can be delivered in fractional applications, meaning a fraction of the skin is treated. Lasers can also be delivered in fully ablative mode, meaning the entire surface of the skin is treated to a predetermined depth.
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Can microneedling help?
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Yes. Simple microneedling or better still, RFM (Radiofrequency microneedling) can reduce wrinkles. Dermarollers, Dermapens, Dermastamps & SkinPens can all improve lines & wrinkles to a limited extent.
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What dermal fillers do I employ for lip rejuvenation?
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Hyaluronic acid is my preferred dermal filler of choice as this material can volumize as well as define. In the ageing lip, my usual practice is to provide structural support to the surrounding lip before filling the lip itself. Volume & definition has to be conservative to match the surrounding facial structures.
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I also employ collagen stimulating fillers, namely calcium hydroxyl apatite fillers in various hyper diluted concentrations. This is especially useful for patients who do not want the downtime associated with laser resurfacing. This method of filling improves the skin quality & wrinkles over a period of 2 to 4 months. This family of dermal fillers often last twice as long compared to hyaluronic acid fillers.
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What can chemical peels do for ageing lips?
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Chemical peels are underutilized in the context of smoker’s lines & lip rejuvenation. Medium depth peels such as TCA or Jessner TCA can improve deep upper lip lines, whilst deeper segmental phenol peels can take decades off the ageing lip.
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I frequently combine peels with laser resurfacing to revitalise & rejuvenate the perioral area. Peels are excellent at providing a nice natural transition with no demarcation lines for areas of the face, neck & chest.
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Superficial peels such as glycolic & lactic acid can help prevent wrinkles. These are conducted monthly in a step up program.
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Can Botox help with upper lip wrinkles?
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Yes, small doses of Botox can relax the muscle fibres surrounding the lip. This in turn can reduce dynamic wrinkles, namely wrinkles with puckering & animation. This action usually lasts 2-4 months.
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Can threads help with lip wrinkles?
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PDO or monofilament threads can reduce wrinkles. Threads last between 6 to 9 months. They are best combined with HIFU, RF (radiofrequency) or with laser resurfacing for optimal results.
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Can creams help with lip wrinkles?
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Yes & no. Topical skin care can prevent wrinkles, however unfortunately there is no magic anti-wrinkle cream. Antioxidants such as vitamin E, ascorbic & ferulic acid can reduce free radical damage from UV & environmental stressors. Hyaluronic acid can improve lip hydration, whilst retinol & retinoic acids can stimulate collagen.
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Davin S. Lim
Dermatologist
Brisbane, Australia