First and foremost, leather is a natural material and results can vary quite a bit depending on many different factors. Leather from one tannery may not react the same as leather from another tannery. Even different parts of the exact same hide can have different outcomes. I highly recommend doing your own experimenting with different products in order to find a method that you prefer to use. The products I am using are what I get the most consistent and reliable results that I prefer and enjoy, and I personally use products that I have built and see no issues with this process. I realize that some of these products are not available in some parts of the world and even in some parts of the United States; unfortunately, I don't have a perfect answer for that situation. Once again, I would just say to experiment with what you do have access to and try to replicate the results that you enjoy. I use Hermann Oak vegetable tanned leather primarily and feel as if I get the most consistent results with that leather. It can be expensive, especially for a hobbyist leather crafter, but it is the best veg tan option in my opinion. But even with Hermann Oak leather, there are still times that I struggle to get the exact results I am chasing. Leather craft is an art and it is impossible to achieve perfect results every single time. Keep that in mind and just enjoy the process as much as you can!

Here is the finishing process I use on almost every vegetable tanned leather project that I complete. This is not the only way or the "correct" way to finish leather products. There are many different products and methods out there, this is just what I personally prefer.
Step 1: Make sure the leather is completely dry after tooling, wet molding, etc.
Step 2: (Not covered in this video) If I am going to do any paint work then this is the first thing I do after the leather is dry.
Step 3: One light/medium coat of neatsfoot oil (or olive oil) and allow at least one hour to dry.
Step 4: Add 2 to 3 coats of leather dye or Pro dye and allow 30 minutes to one hour to dry (some colors require more coats than others)
Step 5: Add one coat of Tan Kote as a resist and allow at least 30 minutes to dry.
Step 6: Apply antique paste and immediately wipe off the excess, but do not buff, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
Step 7: Buff the rest of the antique paste in order to clean any thick or clumpy areas and then allow 30 minutes to one hour of dry time.
Step 8: Add another coat of Tan Kote to clean and partially seal the leather.

Tan Kote is not a hard sealant and it will still allow oil to penetrate the leather over time. If you want to increase water resistance and completely seal the leather then I would suggest experimenting with leather sheen, Resolene, and other similar products. I do not have much experience with those products to speak on any of them.

Girty Leather Company Website : https://girtyleatherco.com/

Below are most of the products I use in this video and links to purchase them. These are not affiliate links.
Hermann Oak Vegetable Tanned Leather - https://www.springfieldleather.com/He...

Fiebings 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil - https://www.springfieldleather.com/Ne...

Fiebings Pro Dye - https://www.springfieldleather.com/se...

Fiebings Tan Kote - https://www.springfieldleather.com/Fi...

Fiebings Antique Finish - https://www.springfieldleather.com/Fi...

Sheep Skin Shearling - https://www.springfieldleather.com/Sh...

Wool Daubers - https://www.springfieldleather.com/Da...

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