This tool restoration was a unique experience. This is a Model 256 power hacksaw was made by L. Krushel & Sons Ltd. (LKS) of Morden, Manitoba, Canada. I am not sure of the age as there is very little information on this saw, but the motor is from the 1960s. LKS was most known for building high quality welders and produced the first 180AMP welder in Canada. The LKS 180AMP welder is still sought after today, but this hacksaw should not be.

I was not overly impressed with the build quality on this tool, so much so, that I would probably not use it and I do not want anyone else to use it ever again. That is why I decided not to replace the power switch on this tool. The majority of the hacksaw is made with sections of angle iron welded together. I even had to hammer off the slag from the welds for painting, as it was never done the first time around. It was also odd to see shafts with no bushings or bearings around them for support. I imagine heavy use of this machine would wear out these parts very quickly.

There is no way to adjust the feed pressure or to make the cut more straight and square. This must have just been a nice thing to have that would quietly cut metal for further clean-up.

I understand that this tool was built in a time when most tools were starting to be made with cheaper materials and methods for competitive reasons.

I tried to match the colour as best as I could and applied 3 coats of filler primer, 4 coats of blue paint, and 3 clear coats. I used the snap rings I had lying around as I didn't want to buy whole new sets of them just for this application.

With a fresh blade, the saw did cut quite fast, but was not square. If you do come across an old power hacksaw, look for something built better and with adjustment mechanisms.

EDIT: The part of the video where it says "Title Text Here" was meant to talk about the old power switch location and why I didn't want to replace it.

Also, the bearing was warm while the rod was around -20C. Hopefully, that helped with hammering the bearing on, haha. As shown in the video, I used the old outer bearing race to support the new bearing while I was hammering the wheel onto it. I still need an arbor press.


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