How to replace the crank sensor in a BMW M57 engine. This particular car I am working with here today is a 2010 BMW 335d however a similar procedure will apply to other vehicles equipped with the same engine. A faulty sensor can cause a lack of performance, poor fuel economy, rough idle, engine randomly stalls, no starts, and the tachometer not working while the engine is trying to be started. I do have a testing procedure video for this sensor so be sure to check it out. #bmwm57 #oemtools #bmw335d

Crankshaft position sensor: https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplin...

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-socket and ratchet set
-new crankshaft sensor
-allen wrench set
-E14 and E18 sockets

Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:43 Disassembly
03:08 Accessing the Starter Motor
04:21 Removing the Crankshaft Sensor
05:33 Installing the New Sensor
05:43 Reassembly

Procedure:
Disconnect the battery in the trunk. Remove the two side covers by the hood shocks. Remove the 6 8 mm bolts holding down the cabin filter cover. Remove the 2 8mm bolts at each side of the plastic cover going over the engine bay. Remove the cabin filter cover assembly. Unclip the wire going across the engine bay.

Remove the sensor and wire on the passenger side on top of that plastic cover. Gently wiggle out The plastic cover and finally remove. Remove the 7 5mm socket head bolts for the engine cover.

Wipe around the oil fill location, then remove the filler cap. Lift out the first part of the engine cover. Reinstall that oil fill cap. Remove the plastic cover at the center of the windshield cowl, then loosen the e18 bolt here.

Using an e14 socket, remove the two bolts on each of the strut towers for the strut brace. Remove the strut braces for each side.

Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding on the center section plastic trim panel on the firewall. There are two styles of fasteners here, make sure you note their location. Pull out that rubber gasket. Then lift out the cover.

Now here are the bolts for the starter. The car will need to be safely elevated for this step. I managed to get the car started and drive it up on ramps. Going under the car, remove the 8mm bolts holding on the belly pan under the driver’s seat. Once those bolts are all out, rotate the belly pan towards the rear of the car to disconnect the lock-in clip.

Using an E14 torx socket, I have a piece of 3/8” square stock that I inserted into the rear of the socket, then with a 3/8” wrench I was able to loosen the bolt. This is an extremely awkward spot.

Now to get the other bolt, this one took 32” of extensions with a swivel and a socket all on a 3/8” ratchet. Pull back the starter, no need to fully remove it. Remove a 4 mm allen wrench or socket, remove the bolt holding in the sensor. This is an encapsulated fastener so it cannot be fully removed.

I removed the 4 mm socket head bolt for the electrical connector bracket. The connector was already disconnected, it has a tab that needs to be depressed, then wiggle the connector apart. If you have a mechanic’s magnet, this would be a good to use it right now as it’s a tight space and you can easily lose the fastener.

Remove the sensor. Compare the old and new sensors to ensure they are the same. The new sensor didn’t come with a bolt, so the old one needs to be removed. Continue to unscrew it, the retainer it sits in is threaded.

Thread it into the new sensor. The old bracket for the electrical connector needs to be removed too. Install the bracket onto the new connector.

Install that new sensor in place. You’ll need to insert the sensor into the hole, some wiggling maybe needed. Make sure it’s somewhat seated before installing the bolt. Finally install the bolt and tighten.

The starter can be put back into place.

All other parts are installed in reverse of removal.

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